What to Look Forward To at the SS23 Shows

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Following the start of the Covid-19 pandemic, the spring/summer 2023 womenswear shows are back in full force, with major companies returning to busy schedules in New York, London, Milan, and Paris.

The season will include several much awaited debuts from a variety of recently appointed creative directors at historic labels, including Maximilian Davis at Salvatore Ferragamo, a star in Vogue’s Fashion New World portfolio. The two-year absence of Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake from Europe will be followed by the return of other Asian fashion houses. Additionally, a variety of new designers will present their first runway presentations, from Act N°1, funded by Valentino, in Milan to Chopova Lowena, a nominee for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2022 in London. Furthermore, it’s musical chairs season, with brands relocating their shows to other locations. Fendi, for example, will perform a historic display in New York, while Raf Simons, a mainstay of Paris, will deliver a show in London. Greater New York

Here is the schedule for the Big Four shows for spring/summer 2023.

New York

9 – 14 September 2022

With exhibitions from Marni, Cos, and Fendi in the city, the Big Apple is starting to resemble a Grand Tour stop for European designers. The later Italian company is putting on a show to commemorate the 25th birthday of its renowned Fendi Baguette.

Along with the experimental talent of the city, such Puppets & Puppets, Collina Strada, Interior, and Kenneth Nicholson, some popular New York brands will return to the calendar in the spring/summer of 2023, including Tommy Hilfiger, Eckhaus Latta, and Area. Expect to see all the usual US heavy hitters, including Coach, Michael Kors, Gabriela Hearst, Carolina Herrera, and Tory Burch, with Proenza Schouler (celebrating its 20th anniversary) and Tom Ford opening and closing the calendar, respectively.


16 – 20 September 2022

There is a noticeable buzz in London, which has seen a decline in the number of domestic blockbuster names on its schedule in recent seasons. Burberry and JW Anderson will both be back in the city for spring/summer 2023, and Raf Simons, a mainstay in Paris, will end the Friday presentations in style. In addition to Christopher Kane, KNWLS, and Dilara Fndkolu returning to the calendar, Chopova Lowena, Tove, and other nominees for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2022 staging their first presentations, SS Daley, Di Petsa, and Supriya Lele will once again be names to watch.


20 – 26 September 2022

Although Milan isn’t the fashion city most often associated with emerging talent, a number of young designers will be exhibiting their first collections there for spring/summer 2023. Check out British designers Rhuigi Villaseor at Bally, Filippo Grazioli at Missoni, Maximilian Davis at Salvatore Ferragamo, and Marco de Vincenzo at Etro. Big companies are also stepping up to sponsor more up-and-coming artists. Dolce & Gabbana is supporting London’s most eclectic name, Matty Bovan, as he joins the Milan program. Act N°1 is supported by Maison Valentino, an Italian brand. The other Italian powerhouses, such as Prada, Gucci, Max Mara, Versace, Giorgio and Emporio Armani, and Bottega Veneta, will return in a big manner. Matthieu Blazy will exhibit the latter brand’s sophomore collection.


26 September – 4 October 2022

Asian fashion houses are making a comeback in Paris, including Comme des Garçons, Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Issey Miyake, which will present its first womenswear collection since the creator of the Tokyo label passed away. Along with Australian label Zimmerman, which typically presents in New York, Victoria Beckham is hurriedly traveling from London to Paris. As per tradition, the calendar includes appearances by Dior, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balenciaga, and Hermès, with Chanel, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton capping up fashion month.

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