Apple Martin, the daughter of Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin, made a surprise visit on the front row at Chanel earlier this week, and young designer Miss Sohee debuted an off-schedule collection that threw the fashion world into a commotion. Not to mention the polarizing faux animal-inspired outfits at Schiaparelli, which Kylie Jenner also donned to express support. But with their most recent performance, Viktor & Rolf could have just topped the list of great occasions.
Known for its unconventional approach to haute couture, the Dutch luxury brand is a reliable source of hilarity throughout fashion week. With its Spring 2023 line, which takes an unusual tack on ballgowns, it most definitely succeeds in doing so.
A few stunning tulle gowns in the most mouthwatering candy colors opened the show. But as the presentation went on, the dresses began to emerge in the strangest positions, ranging from being completely sideways to being upside-down and covering the face. They also seemed slightly asymmetrical with the bustier placed right up to the model’s neck. Some looks gave the impression that the model was holding the dress while donning underwear.
The brand cheekily plays on the notion of deconstruction by exposing the corseted undergarments beneath the out-of-body gowns, challenging us to consider how these conventional, familiar items “should” be worn. Additionally, the altered dresses create intriguing, aesthetically attractive shapes.