Photo: Monica Feudi / Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
At Proenza Schouler’s spring 2023 runway show in New York City’s Hall des Lumières, digital rain fell down the walls. The first model to walk the runway had on an angular crop top with a halo of white fringe, and it was coupled with a black draped skirt that might have passed for a gloomy cloud.
From there, McCollough and Hernandez looked into Latin details, such as flamenco ruffles popping out from the hems of generously cut bell bottoms, polka dots in various sizes adorning twist-front skirts, and piped bell sleeves that went beyond the knees. In the past, they have frequently mentioned their exciting travels or their close-knit group of women as influences.
Water and its distinctive manner of moving was the focus of the collection, which was undoubtedly inspired by the elements. The show notes described the collection as “an unabashed cacophony of spirit, of joy, of the sensual and tactile qualities that bring pleasure to life,” and described “water as a symbol of life that floods the narrative and intersects with the designers’ deep-rooted personal histories.”
The story of the collection was defined by fringe, a favorite of designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, in addition to the ode to liquid. Christine Quinn, Emily Ratajkowski, and Karlie Kloss, who were sitting in the front row, all adored the white fringe pieces worn by Kendall Jenner.
The models had dewy skin, moist hair that was worn pulled back, and. They gave off the impression that they had just emerged from the water or left a dance floor. The collection seemed more natural than previous season’s thanks to waterfall films projected on the venue’s marble walls and an ASMR-inducing music to go with it. The work of designers who would like to hold onto a summer feeling as long as they can was evident in the crochet separates, nipple-freeing sheer lace shirts and dresses, luxurious turquoise lace materials, lime sorbet small dresses with touch-the-floor bell sleeves, ruffle flared pants, and compact knit pieces that appeared to take their cues from swimwear.
Also, Metallic fringe was added to fern-green fishnet knits, double-tiered sleeves featured dangling fringe, and little golden-fringed medallions were sewn into suiting. It’s even more obvious that fringe has evolved into the brand’s house style when considering the previous several seasons.
With over 20 years of experience under their belt, Proenza Schouler is still among the best American fashion houses. This collection demonstrated that they not only have a unique voice in the world of minimal fashion but also have the ability to push forms to an extreme that would intrigue even the most ardent maximalist.