For the industry, September is a critical month for designers. An entirely new cast of skilled designers is always brought in with each new season. The newest members of Fashion East, Karoline Vitto and Standing Ground, Meryll Rogge with her deconstructionist design philosophy, or Tokyo James who combines Savile Row tailoring with traditional African methods are just a few of the names that are advancing fashion.
Here are some designers to keep an eye out for in spring/summer 2023.
Beyoncé, Erykah Badu, Janelle Monáe, and Michaela Coel are just a few of the celebrities that Feben, who only goes by her first name, has previously dressed. The multiracial graduate of Central Saint Martins has created recognizable signatures that include gowns made of technical fabric in the most enticing hues.
Teni “Tia” Adeola, who was raised in London was born in Nigeria, established her own clothing line in 2017 while attending Parsons School of Design. She is currently residing in New York City. Since then, Sza, Gigi Hadid, and Cara Delevingne have all praised the designer for her ultra-feminine, body-conscious approach.
With its cutting-edge designs, Standing Ground, a recent addition to the Fashion East group and the creation of RCA graduate Michael Stewart, is creating buzz. Stewart approaches design in an unorthodox way, creating objects that are both sculptural and glitzy.
The popular designer Karoline Vitto is recognized for her figure-hugging garments that embrace a variety of body shapes. 2019 saw her complete the highly regarded MA Fashion program at the Royal College of Art (RCA). This year, the Brazilian designer is a part of the Fashion East group.
The British-Nigerian designer combines traditional African methods and materials with Savile Row tailoring to produce gender-neutral clothing. What makes them unique is their deft use of color together with a variety of textures on pieces that are precisely carved.
Masha Popova specializes in denim pieces and makes separates that are the pinnacle of the Y2K cool-girl look. This season will mark the debut of the designer, who was born in Ukraine and now calls London home.
Victor Weinsanto is no stranger to designing garish clothing, having previously worked at Y/Project, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Chloé. The Parisian designer has a talent for fusing references to queer culture with extremely feminine silhouettes.
Kiminte Kimhekim makes eye-catching, couture-level clothing by drawing inspiration from traditional Korean costume. Additionally, the South Korean designer, who formerly worked at Balenciaga, is skilled at incorporating quirky athleisure features.
Elena Velez made a splash with her eccentric collection during New York Fashion Week last season. The American designer’s creations have previously been spotted on Solange Knowles, Grimes, and Charli XCX. He has a flair for fusing handmade workmanship with deconstructive methods.
Meryll Rogge, a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize in 2022, is well known for her use of second-hand materials and outlandish design ideas. The unusual slip dresses made by the Belgian designer have established themselves as a recognizable brand.
All of Paolo Carzana’s surreal works are inspired by nature, fantasy, and workmanship (his last collection was an ode to Welsh fairy mythologies). Additionally, everything is delicately made by hand by the designer, who is currently Sarabande’s artist in residence.
Designer Anne Isabella, of Danish and French descent, lives and works in Berlin. She enjoys reinventing iconic 1960s and 1970s designs. The designer’s works are very contemporary and use textured fabrications despite having a flair for nostalgia.
The Paris calendar marks the debut of Paula Canovas Del Vas, whose label was established in 2018. The Spanish designer, a Central Saint Martins alumna, is known for her quirky elegance and often uses recognizable pointed motifs in her designs, especially in her footwear.
Designer Rui Zhou, who was born in China, specializes in producing knitwear with deliberate imperfections as well as body awareness. The designer creates objects that seem delicate to the touch and are carefully built.
Sinéad O’Dwyer, a Dubliner who now resides in London, had experience at the RCA before establishing her business in 2019. The designer develops works that are as distinctively philosophical as they are sculptural by incorporating ideas of bodily dysmorphia into her work.