Backstage at Dior’s spring 2026 show, Peter Philips—the brand’s creative and image director for makeup—was in the midst of orchestrating quiet perfection. “‘The way you made the men look so good, I want the same for the girls,’” he recalls Jonathan Anderson telling him before the debut of his first women’s collection for the house. The new creative director wanted natural refinement—models who looked like the best version of themselves, not overly made-up.
Philips interpreted this direction through a “calm” beauty look that softened, rather than competed with, Anderson’s bold reinterpretations of Dior codes: sculptural bows, reimagined New Look jackets, and modern cravats. “I did a new type of nude for JW,” Philips said, smiling as he greeted longtime collaborator Juergen Teller.
Outside, the Jardin des Tuileries was charged with anticipation. Ushers in relaxed grey knits guided guests to their seats—Jenna Ortega in a chic mini, Jonathan Bailey in denim—while a glowing inverted pyramid floated above the runway. The collection unfolded in dramatic proportion: knit capes that billowed like sails, lace gowns with ethereal wing-like structures, and dresses crafted entirely from sequined petals.
“This season isn’t about protection; it’s about blossoming,” Philips explained. “It’s a new chapter—more feminine, more open.” The sentiment mirrored Anderson’s own vision: a dialogue between precision and vulnerability, between heritage and reinvention.
The beauty mirrored that duality. Working alongside hairstylist Guido Palau and manicurist Ama Quashie, Philips created a fresh, tactile look—bare lashes, cleanly buffed nails, luminous skin. Dior’s new Backstage Rosy Glow Blush Sticks in Berry and Rosewood brought warmth to the cheeks, while golden lids and neutral lips lent a soft radiance. “It melts into the skin and gives this beautiful, alive glow,” Philips said.
By the show’s close, Anderson’s Dior had articulated something both familiar and forward: beauty stripped of artifice, yet steeped in artistry. “Don’t cover it up,” Philips reflected. “Let them shine as they are—and that’s the best way to complete JW’s vision.”
